Introduction

Africa…the very name conjures up images of jungles, deserts and wild animals...and a more primal perspective of life. I have travelled extensively but for some reason the so-called Dark Continent was never in my view as a place I would visit. No reason why, other than it just seemed so distant and different. Yet in 2009 I would indeed be visiting Africa. Looking back I scarcely believe I was there, yet my short stay left an indelible mark on me, in ways I never imagined.

It started in Spring of 2009, during a conversation with a friend and professional associate. James (I call him Jim) is a designer, has at times been a pastor and in that role is involved with Open Arms International. Our friendship goes back almost 20 years. OAI operates, among other things, an orphanage in Eldoret, Kenya and a lunch/school program for children in an Eldoret slum. During a conversation Jim asked if I could help him with some designs he was working on for new quarters at the orphanage…the hook was being dangled.

In the course of the professional aspect of our relationship, I noted whatever money I earned on his projects went to new photographic equipment. Jim mentioned how wonderful it would be if I could accompany him on one of his trips to take photos he could use for future trips and potential fund-raising. I could feel the tug of the line as he gently pulled the rod back… the hook was being set.

This would not be a typical trip for him, but more of an exploratory one to look at future opportunities to help OAI as well as a school located in a slum on the outskirts of Nairobi. I’m not sure how Jim became connected with the latter, but I do know he is very creative in his connections…a “fisher of men”, so to speak. My presence was as a photographer and to see where my engineering expertise could be used.

There were five of us who went – Matt is another friend of Jim’s and has been involved in outreach to Native Americans in the western US. He was interested in similar activities towards indigenous peoples of Africa, and his own heritage came from Kenya as well. (His uncanny resemblance to Barack Obama didn’t hurt us either!). Rounding out our team were Auna and Cory, two young people who were also acquainted with Jim and planned to spend a month in Eldoret, working at a school affiliated with OAI and part of Jim’s growing network of connections.

So we did indeed visit and meet with people doing amazing things, but we played as well. Jim, in his previous dozen or more trips to Africa over the past seven years, had never gone on a safari…and so we did. I want to say that was perhaps the most memorable aspect, but as amazing as it was, I think it was the opportunity to experience the joy people feel despite abject poverty and making do without the things we take for granted in our western culture. Things like clean water, safety (both in terms of wildlife and crime), roads without potholes, and clean air. Seeing into the soul of a child in his or her eyes is an image that will at once haunt me and fill me with humility.

Enjoy the photos.

Masai Mara Wildlife Reserve

Elephants - we encountered two herds while driving. One had more than 27 elephants, including a few little ones.

Rainbow and Acacia Tree. The road in the foreground is about as good as it gets...in fact, this one was among the best we travelled for the past several hundred miles.

Herd of Zebra and Wildebeest (also called gnu...but you probably gnu...er, knew that)


Zebra (Note how they watch each other's back)


Young male lions playing. These are probably from the same "litter". (The blurriness and lack of color was due to the poor light conditions...it was close to sunset.)


Lioness resting after eating breakfast. The recent kill is on the right.


Female Lion...closer (thanks to my 230 mm telephoto. Of course one does not get out of a vehicle, lest one goes from observer to prey)

Male and female osterich with little ones

Rhino with youngster (We were lucky to see this! William our driver had not seen any in his previous 19 trips into the Masai. He was as excited as we were)

Giraffe

Topi, of the antelope family. There were many of these.

Masai men dancing outside their manyatta

Masai women preparing to dance in the manyatta (village)

Me trying to start a fire

Of course, this wouldn't have been possible without the patience and care of our driver William, who repeatedly told me to keep my camera away from the window while in Nairobi (for fear of getting it stolen) and gave us all lessons in negotiating for our souvenir purchases. Here he is dressed in traditional Masai gear...not bad for a Kikuyu! Thank you, William.

Visiting Kambi Teso near Eldoret, Kenya

Kambi Teso is a slum outside of Eldoret, where Open Arms Int'l has a lunch program every day

Auna holding a child, with Cory in the background

Two sisters

A young girl playing a form of jump rope (You can see the blue string by her knees...and yes that's some good air!)

After lunch, a story.

A soccer ball made of plastic bags wrapped with tape and twine

A toothy smile

Me holding the "Red Sweater Kid". He was persistent until I picked him up (a long story)

The kids were fascinated with Auna's tattoos

Intense look

Jim mugging with the kids. Note the doll made of a corn husk.

The edge of the slum as we left.

The Haruma School

The Haruma School is located in a slum on the outskirts of Nairobi. Jim, the leader of our team had made contact with Irene, who is from Nairobi and had a vision for starting the school, and made arrangements for us to visit her and the school.

To reach the school we had to drive through a neighborhood that could be like any upscale area in the US. Note the high walls and barbed wire...security against crime is a real concern here.

Just off of a residential street we turned down this dirt road...and entered a different world.

William our driver stayed with the car while we walked to the school. We brought a number of suitcases with supplies for the school.

Irene met us at the gate and welcomed us with the most beautiful smile.

Auna and Irene

The school is constructed of four shipping containers placed against each other. The interior walls were then removed and used to form the second floor. There are four classrooms and an office. There is also another building with a teacher's lounge and a science classroom.

Interior of the office, showing where the walls were removed.

Matt, Jim and Cory talking to the students. Ben, the Principal is in the light blue jacket.

The students have desks and use scientific calculators...just like anywhere else, including the US.

The school grows uch of it's own food. Here are banana trees and corn and beans are grown in the field beyond the fence.

The school's water system

Classroom with smiling faces.

Birds of the Masai Mara

Given that I know far too many people who enjoy birdwatching to not pay some attention to their interests, I have assembled a separate posting for just you (and anyone else who likes birds). Please understand my own knowledge of wild fowl in general is pretty meager, I have named the ones I know. The rest you and your friends Google and Audubon will have to suffice.

(Update: I have corrected and added the names of the featured birds, thanks to the tireless persistence of our friend Dave Eshbaugh, of Oregon State Parks Trust and avid birder extraodinaire.)

Vitalline Masked Weaver (Ploceus velatus)
(this was actually taken near Eldoret, as this tree is not found on the Masai Mara. However, the birds are just as at home on an Acacia as here.)

Tawny Eagle (Aquila rapax)

Superb Starling (Lamprotonris superbus)

Gray-backed Fiscal (Lanius excubitoroides, male)

Gray Woodpecker (Dendropicos goertae)

Hildebrandt's Starling (Lamprotornis hildebrandt)

Secretary Bird (Sagittarius serpentarius)

Red-billed Oxpecker (Buphagus erythrorhynchus) on back of Giraffe

Lilac-Breasted Roller (Coracias caudata)

Marabou Stork in flight (Leptoptilus crumeniferous)

Marabou Stork in flight

Ditto (amazing how such an ugly bird can look so beautiful in flight)

Marabou Stork...on the ground

Crowned Plover (Vanellus c. coronatus)

Secretary Bird in a tree

African White-backed Vultures (Gyps africanus)

Common Ostriches. (Struthio camelus) The male is the black one, and has many little ones in tow.